Which CoreXY? Voron vs. V-King vs. D-Bot vs. HyperCube Evo

Recently, I have been researching several CoreXY DIY designs for an upcoming 3D printer build. The primary advantages of CoreXY printers over Prusa-style Cartesian configurations are:

  1. The cubic enclosure provides additional rigidity
  2. The bed is stationary along both the X and Y axes (and sometimes Z). This allows the bed to be made thicker, heavier and more stable, and the print itself does not get flung at high speeds along the Y axis.

Keep in mind that there is nothing inherently wrong with Prusa kinematics, and they have been fine-tuned over the years to produce excellent results. But aside from the advantages listed above, a CoreXY might appeal to you just to build something fun and different, and learn new things along the way.

Interested in a standard kit or a preassembled 3D printer? Check out “Best 3D Printers for the Money.”

Build Goals

My goals are as follows:

  • Reliably and repeatably print PLA and PETG at 60-100mm/s
  • Use a direct-drive extruder to print flexible filaments as well
  • Roughly 300mm3 build volume
  • 24v wiring
  • 32 bit control processing
  • Stay within a ~$600 budget

The ability to print ABS in the future would be a bonus, but not a requirement.

Comparison Table

Printer Pros Cons

Voron 2.1

Voron 2.1 3D printer

Approx. Cost:
Excellent design/engineering

Could be your end-game 3D printer

All belts and linear rails

Slick build manual

Designed from the ground up to be enclosed and filtered (ABS)

Most complicated to build

Good illustrations, but not much text documentation

Be prepared to print LOTS of ABS parts during build

“Standard” BOM is 12V by default


Approx. Cost:
A nice iteration on previous designs (HEVO, D-Bot)

Avoids potential problems with bent shafts

Friendly community
Mains voltage attached to a moving bed makes me nervous

Smaller/newer community, not many example builds

Not easily enclosed

HyperCube Evolution

Approx. Cost:
Large community, lots of build examples

Many examples of high-quality prints

Can be made very rigid

Lower than average number of printed parts required
Bed may have wobble issues in single Z-motor configurations (double Z has been added as a default option)

8mm X-axis shafts may have too much flex in larger builds

Possibility of sourcing bent/poorly machined shafts


Approx. Cost:
Large community, long track record, lots of build examples

Good iteration on the tried and tested C-Bot printer

Can scale very large
Cantilevered bed design may cause problems with heavier prints

Not easily enclosed

Relies on printed parts for frame rigidity

Voron 2.1

Voron 2.1 3D printer

The Voron 2.1 is the successor to the highly acclaimed first-generation Voron, designed by Maks Zolin. It is a high-end DIY 3D printer with a fairly high price tag to match. As an upgrade to the Voron 1.6, it adds a fixed bed as well as belts and linear rails on all axes.

I originally read that the Voron 2.1 could be built for roughly $600-800. I generated a BOM spreadsheet and set to work sourcing and estimating parts with the help of a Google Sheets sourcing guide created by community members. Well, I tried pretty hard, but nothing I could spec out–even with primarily AliExpress parts–would bring the theoretical build cost below $1200. Perhaps most Voron builders have already built several 3D printers and happen to have a lot of spare parts on hand.

Do I like the Voron? Yes, I’ve studied the plans, and it’s an awesome piece of engineering. But if a $600 CoreXY build could lay down plastic just as well, at $1200+ you’re really hitting the law of diminishing returns. If printing ABS is really important, you’re space-constrained, and you like that the enclosure is built into the printer frame, then the Voron may have more value for you.

Another issue I have with the Voron is what seems to be a gap in the documentation. There is a slick PDF build guide that reminds me of Lego instructions, but it is light on text. There is also a firmware repository on Github that might provide some clues, but for the beginner to intermediate-level builder, the only real option is to go on Discord and wade through hundreds of search results or start asking your own questions. The Discord community is helpful, but I can’t help but feel there needs to be a better way to bridge the gap between the physical build and the final product.

The Voron 2.1 uses mains current to heat the stationary bed, and 12v everywhere else. 12v may seem like an odd design decision as most newer printers are moving to a 24v configuration, but many of those are also counting on those same 24v to heat the bed. Using 12v reduces the need for some adapters, for example, if you choose to use stock Noctua cooling fans.

The Railcore II is also in this price class, but build costs average around $1500, so it was already out of my initial scope of consideration.

Voron Links:

Voron Design
voroncorexy subreddit
Voron Discord

V-King CoreXY

V-King CoreXY 3D printer

A relatively recent design, the V-King, developed by Roy Berntsen, aims to overcome the percieved limitations of round shafts and linear bearings by using V-slot extrusions and wheels. While it’s true that many things can go wrong with the shaft and bearing design, the same argument could be made for cheap wheels.

“Leave the v-wheels on the $150 Chinese printers,” someone posted in the Voron Discord. While I don’t necessarily agree with this sentiment, it is important to source quality motion components no matter which method you choose. Bearings, V-wheels, and linear rails could all potentially have issues, and by the same token, all have the potential to work extremely well.

The V-King community, primarily active on Facebook, is very friendly and helpful, but relatively new. There aren’t a lot of builds in the wild as of January 2019. Roy’s sample prints look very good, but it seems like he’s still fine-tuning a few things.

My primary concern with this design is the use of mains current attached to a movable bed. Granted, the Z axis moves much more slowly than X and Y, but since you will be wiring this yourself, you will want to be very certain your connections are solid before running 120 or 240 V through it.

V-King Links:

Thingiverse page
Facebook group

HyperCube Evolution

Hypercube Evolution 3D printer

The HyperCube Evolution (also known as the HEVO), developed by SCOTT_3D, is an iteration on the excellent HyperCube 3D printer designed by Tech2C. It adds 3030 extrusions around the frame for added thickness, as well as a few more upgrades. It has a decent Wiki as well as a couple of different BOM generators, online and in Excel format.

Really, there’s not a lot that I don’t like about the HEVO. There are many successful builds in the wild, and a lot of high-quality print examples as well.

Having a stationary bed like the Voron would be nice, but the dual-Z motor configuration seems to have solved most of the issues with bed wobble from the intial design.

I have heard reports that the 8mm X-axis shafts are not stiff enough for larger builds, but they seem to work fine spanning a 300x300mm build area. Some people have gotten around this issue in larger HyperCube Evolution builds by using 10mm shafts on the X-axis, sometimes using hollow aluminum tubes or carbon fiber to reduce the X gantry weight that the Y-axis needs to sling around.

HyperCube Evo Links:

Thingiverse page
Facebook group


D-Bot CoreXY 3D printer

The D-Bot, by spauda01, is the oldest of the 4 designs compared here. It is a remix of Carl Feniak’s Core-XY C-Bot, and can definitely be considered a tried and true design. There are hundreds of makes and remixes on Thingiverse, not only of the D-Bot but its predecessor, so there should be no shortage of documentation and examples to help with the build. Like the HyperCube, there are many good print examples as well.

In my mind, the major disadvantage of this design is the cantilevered bed. Heavier and taller objects could potentially place uneven stresses on the unsupported side of the bed, causing wobble and stuttering along the Z axis. Although a lot of workarounds have been applied to fix these issues, I would prefer a design that avoids them in the first place.

Another common criticism is that printed parts hold a lot of the frame extrusions together. This may or may not cause squareness and rigidity issues, depending on the tolerances of your printed parts, the materials used, and how carefully you assemble everything.

The D-Bot, as well as the HyperCube and HyperCube Evolution, have some ready-made kits available on Aliexpress and elsewhere to help you get started.

D-Bot Links:

Thingiverse page
Facebook group
Reddit announcement


After reviewing the various options, I have narrowed down the options to the HyperCore Evolution and V-King. This is not to say these are the best CoreXY printers, or even the best for the money, just the ones that fit my current build goals the best. Your mileage may vary.

I will make my final decision within the next few weeks and begin sourcing parts.

Have you built any of the designs above or have any other CoreXY designs you would like to share? Let me know in the comments.

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25 thoughts on “Which CoreXY? Voron vs. V-King vs. D-Bot vs. HyperCube Evo”

    • Haha, well I did mention the Railcore II briefly above (not sure what the 300ZL is, exactly), but it’s definitely out of my price range 🙂

  1. Leo beat me to it. I saw the BLV mgn and love the design. I think the Voron is a comparable design, but I’m not sure about adding complexity with the 4 rails on the Z axis. Plus having the gantry move in Z means more moving cables and longer bowden tubing. IMO having the Z on 2x lead screws is a wiser choice.

  2. be carefull with voron.. i never seen a decent print what made by voron2. but the railcore prints is almost factory quality.

  3. Nice comparison. I am the designer of the V-King which came from looking to build a hypercube but the lack of engineering let me to look at the KISS CoreXY and then design the V-King based on the same idea but refine it. The community is growing and a lot of good support. There is a wiki with information on what you ask for as to also safely wire the heatbed. Any decent bigvolume printer should have a ac mains heater. It is a safer solution that running high current through 12 or 24v any day every day

    What ever your choice is to do be sure to have some patience and the V-King will run at about 700-1000 depending on setup and hardware. Some built it for 350 though.. All Chinese

  4. Worth noting that the Voron community has a “Print it forward” scheme via Discord. You just pay the cost of plastic + shipping, and someone will print you all the ABS parts you need. You do the same thing for someone else once you’ve built yours.

    Are all of these machines designs direct drive?

  5. Hypercube Evolution is very similar to Voron 1.6. IMHO it should be taken into comparison too, because it’s much cheaper than v. 2.1, having most of it’s successors advantages.

    – Good manual
    – enclosed printer sides (could be quite easly fully enclosed)
    – neat cable management by default
    – very precisely designed parts with absolutely no supports needed
    – Good looking by default (compared with other non-Voron 3d printers taken into consideration)
    – Motors physically separated from the XY belt path with closed belts and dampers. An elegant way to suppress vibrations, put less force on motors shaft horizontally, move motors to printer’s back and allow to test XY belt path without motors.
    – Easy belt tensioning mechanism
    – Very nice extruder (Mobius). IMHO it’s one of the best choices in case of all bowden designs in this comparison.

    – 12V
    – Pretty complicated
    – Pretty heavy X axis will limit speed/acc (HEVO with carbon rods shoud be much lighter)

  6. Its worth noting that deviating from the vanilla builds is nothing to be ashamed of. Yes some builds call for 12v vs 24v, and 12/24v heated bed vs mains – but you can change this very easily.

    The HyperCube Evolution calls for 24v converted ramps, and a MK2A 24V Heated Bed. On mine I opted for the Einsy Rambo 24v controller and a mains heated bed.

    That’s the beauty of these open source builds. You make it your way!

  7. Voron 2.1 is hella expensive but the thing has WiFi connectivity, 100% automatic bed leveling, automatic z offset switch, nozzle cleaner, quick change tool head (mosquito and v6 compatibility), linear rails, filtered and incorporated enclosure, super helpful community, and best of all: knowledge of every single aspect of your printer.

    I have mine set up so if I type the “G32” Goode it’s literally ready to print in under 5 minutes and I didn’t have to do ANYTHING.

  8. I modified the parts of the HEVO to use larger X-rods, and my results are: printer is fine as far as x-y rigidity, but it only works well at slow speeds, and the Z platform is very finicky when it comes to leveling, and doesn’t want to stay that way. Also, the build plate needs to be about double the thickness that you get from the typical vendor, and mine arrived warped.

    I’m currently building a Voron 2.2 and will tear the hevo down for parts for a second one once the first is up and running.

  9. I imagine by now you are well into your build if not already finished. I opted to go the “D-Bot” way in a 300x300x300 configuration. Incorporated the 3 spindle z-axis mod and some other mods as well. Also printed larger corner braces. No issues with rigidity at all. Control is 32bit with 24v supply for bed and hot-end.
    For me it works just fine…..and was fun to build.
    Good luck with your project.

  10. Great overview and comparison – I’ve decided to build a coreXY printer this year, but part from the ones mentioned here, I also consider the newcomer SecKit SK-GO or the larger and more expensive SK300.

  11. Hello. I arrive a little late. You can also consider the Hypercube Evo Ngen, a printer inspired from the SCOTT 3D model. Hypercube Evo Ngen on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3018572

    Printing capacity:

    News and highlights
    -Bowden Short of 400mm
    -Magnetic head with quick replacement
    -Treated scrubs
    -Hotend cooling
    -Cooling parts
    -Integrated electronics
    -Maintenance accessibility.
    -Closed box.


  12. Of all the printers I’ve build, the Railcore II is by far my favorite. It is an absolute workhorse of a printer.

    Looking to build another one, will probably not do another RC bc it’s fun to try something new (and cheaper). Discovered the BLV on here, may do that kit. SecKit SK-GO is undergoing a complete redesign, which looks interesting. I was going to get the current SK-Go kit but lead time is 2mos. Too long.

  13. I’d be curious to see a more detailed comparison between RailCore II, BLV mgn and HevORT. Print speeds, quality, reliability of prints, ease of maintenance, tuning, etc.


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